October 23, 2026
The three main types of suit cuts are British, Italian, and American, and they differ mainly in shoulder structure, waist shaping, and drape. The British cut is structured with a defined waist. The Italian cut is softer and closer to the body. The American cut has natural shoulders and a straight, relaxed body. Each suits different builds and settings. Knowing the difference helps you ask for what you actually want when you order a custom suit. Peter Panos has been fitting men in San Francisco since 1978, and the cut you choose shapes everything from the shoulder line to the... View Article
October 23, 2026
How to match tie to suit comes down to three things, in order: proportion, pattern, and color. Your tie should be about as wide as your lapel. Its pattern should be a different scale from the suit and shirt, and its color should be darker than your shirt. Get those right and any combination on a well-fitted custom suit looks deliberate. A tie is the smallest piece of the outfit, but it sits at the center of the frame, directly under your face. Peter Panos has been fitting men in San Francisco since 1978, and the same principle runs through... View Article
September 28, 2026
The four foundational shirt collar styles are the spread, point, button-down, and club, plus the cutaway, an extra-wide spread. Choose by three things: your face shape, the size of the tie knot you’ll wear, and how formal the occasion is. A narrow point collar lengthens a round face; a spread or cutaway adds width to a long, narrow one. This shirt collar styles guide covers what each collar looks like, how it pairs with ties and faces, and which ones hold up when you skip the tie. It also covers the details that make a collar fit rather than just... View Article
September 28, 2026
The most common suit fit mistakes are shoulders that extend past your shoulder bone, sleeves that hide your shirt cuff, a jacket too short to cover the seat, an X-shaped pull at the button, a gap between the jacket collar and your neck, and trousers that pool over your shoes. Most can be corrected through professional suit alterations in San Francisco. The shoulders rarely can, and that point matters more than any other, because it tells you where to spend your attention when you buy, and what to expect when you bring an existing suit to a tailor. Below, each... View Article
August 17, 2026
The Three-Piece Suit Revival: When (and How) to Wear a Waistcoat The three-piece suit has returned to prominence as more men look for ways to make formal and professional clothing feel distinctive without becoming overly flashy. Understanding when to wear a three-piece suit can help you take advantage of its polished appearance while avoiding situations where it may feel unnecessarily formal. Consisting of matching trousers, a jacket, and a waistcoat, the three-piece suit offers a refined silhouette that works particularly well for weddings, important business occasions, formal celebrations, and other events where presentation matters. Once associated primarily with traditional business... View Article
