Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Tell Your Tailor Exactly What You Need

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Tell Your Tailor Exactly What You Need

January 25, 2020

Your very first bespoke suit is a milestone. The difference between off-the-rack (even when tailored) and a garment specifically made for your measurements and personal style, crafted by a master tailor, is immense. In order to get the suit of your dreams, however, you’ll need to be able to tell your tailor exactly what you want.

Here’s an overview of the vocabulary you’ll need to get bespoke suit tailoring in San Francisco, CA.

Different kinds of suits

First, consider where you’ll be wearing this suit. Mostly for work? At your wedding or other special occasions? Your tailor needs to know this so they can guide you toward appropriate style and fabric choices.

You’ll also need to decide whether you want a suit or a tux. Tuxedos are considered more formal, are often worn with bowties and have satin lapels. They’re most often worn to weddings, galas and other formal events.

Suits, on the other hand, are dressy enough for formal events, yet perfectly acceptable in the boardroom, the courtroom and on the street.

You’ll also want to choose between a three-piece suit (with a vest, and more formal) or a two-piece suit (just the jacket and pants).

Fabric varieties

Your fabric choice will also have an impact on where and when you wear your suit. Here are four of the most common varieties:

  • Worsted wool: This is the most popular choice of fabric, thanks to its versatility in different temperatures. It has a slight sheen and works best with solid-color suits.
  • Super 120s wool: This is a lightweight, opulent fabric that works well with three-season suits.
  • Mohair: Mohair is made from angora goats and is quite insulating as well as wrinkle resistant, making it great for winter suits or cool climates.
  • Flannel: Flannel is a brushed worsted wool that is breathable, lightweight and available in a wide variety of colors and patterns.

Tips and terminology

For the best results, bring photos to your tailor to show them what you’re looking for. This will help when you’re not sure how to describe what you’re after. Here are some other useful terms:

  • Pant break: This is how much your pants meet your shoes.
  • Suit jacket vent: These are slits at the back of your jacket that make them more fitted. You can get single, double or no vents.
  • Single or double breasted: This refers to how many columns of buttons go down the front of your jacket.
  • Padding: Shoulder pads create a broad look, while no padding is more modern.
  • Taper: Having your jackets or pants tapered creates a more modern, fitted look.

Suit tailoring in San Francisco, CA

Peter Panos Bespoke Tailor has been creating bespoke suits for San Franciscans since 1978. Our clients range from businessmen to celebrities, and we take pride in making the highest-quality custom suits, coats, pants, shirts and more. Let us help you reflect your individual style in a brand-new, made-to-order wardrobe. Reach out to us today to set up an appointment. We look forward to working with you soon.

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